Snippets

So…frankly…there is no way to adequately describe Camino. I guess it is sort of similar to describing the smell of a rose and one has never seen a flower or the feel of the wind on the beach if you have never seen the ocean. You want to describe the sensations but words are just not adequate. We thought today we would fill in the gaps…the snippets that will help transport you here. First off the day was easy. Thirteen and a half miles of walking. We were above the clouds 1/3 of the day. The earth and the vegetation could hardly contain their joy that Easter is coming. There were FIELDS of yellow; violets everywhere; fruit trees proudly displaying blossoms. Some of you are following us on the Camino and tell us to tell you WHERE we are.  We were in Tricastille last night at the cutest albergue called Albergue Atrio. We walked the old Pilgrim trail down to Sarria. We are staying at Pension Escalinata just before Santa Maria church.  We have another mountain range in front of us but nothing like the two we have crossed. We AND our legs like the ascent better than the descent….not…

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For Every Ascent There Is A Descent

Those of you who know Ernest know that his sport of choice by far is road cycling. He thrives when he can climb on his bike and pedal away. He is already planning the next Camino on a bike.  I would do the muesta on a bike but when it comes to the mountains..well…nope..I will need to take care of grandchildren then.  As he has tried to help me fall in love with the sport as an exercise one mantra has become fixated on my mind. It is: For every ascent there is a descent!  Man, was that true today. O Ceiberiro was the cutest village and we stayed in a hotel that we shall remember the rest of our lives.   One of the first things we do every morning is check weather. Ernest volunteered to stay for a week as next Wednesday it will start snowing there and not stop for three days. The high will be 30 degrees  F.  Actually we thanked God that we did not climb or descend in that weather   We had a light breakfast and began to finish transversing our last mountain range to Santiagi de Compostelle. The trail was 90% descent.…

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What a Day!

Well, sit back and sip a coke or cup of coffee because there is so much to tell you. (Or you can just sign off now and not read this prose. I told you that we are not travelogue fans so you have a choice here ) What a day it was! We like ro start around eight a.m. but when I am in the sun a lot I get a fever blister on my lip. I brought medicine but not enough for this episode. Sure, I’ll just go to the Pharmacy in O Ceberiro where we are headed. NOPE, there are no pharmacies for two days. O0ps, that won’t work. So we wAit and wait and wait outside the local pharmacy. ( think that Jesus thought Jan might need ANOTHER patience lesson! I gratefully got meds and we bid adieu to our wonderful albergue hosts and took off for our scenic mountain hike. The first three miles are up a valley with gradual inclines and rushing snow-fed stream beside us. Heavenly!!! We can do this all day. Then we took a strong, well marked left into the woods AND we started to climb. I mean climb. We went straight…

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You’ve Got a Friend in Me

There are two sides to this title. One side: The Pilgrims…As Ernest and I walked an easy 12 miles today it was so easy to think of the friendships we are making with the pilgrims. As I have mentioned before nationalities from all over this amazing earth are represented. At this point we have only met pilgrims who are predominantly male and all are of an age that could be our children or oldest grandchildren. Most are very well schooled, fluent in multiple languages, single, inquisitive, open.  Our Hungarian friend competed in The World Track and Field trials in 2016. He just completed his studies to be a veterinarian. His recent marriage is in trouble. Two German girls have just accepted new high paying and demanding positions with large companies. They see this brief interlude as the last opportunity to walk Camino for a long time. A Spanish dad and twenty-something daughter are taking this time for togetherness. Always there is a story…a life..a problem…a tribute. They are called but we are all on this journey together. Second side: Ernest and me. We have always been best friends even when we would consider murder but this has been such a…

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Just Another Day in Paradise

I want you to know from the beginning that the title is part “tongue in cheek” and part ABSOLUTE TRUTH. Today this cowboy that I am walking with, namely my husband, decided that we could go ONE more town toward Santiago. It was to be just two more small hills. Didn’t I mention that the Michelin map ?  Sixteen miles and six huge “hills later we Right, no snow!  Just another heat wave that demanded hiking shorts and a wet buff on our necks. “John Wayne” which is an alias for Ernesto took good care of his “missus” as we literally drug into town at 4:00. His comment was, ” Hon, if we just keep this pace we can get into Santiago middle of next week!”  My answer is, “Ernesto,I just want to get into Santiago!” I don’t know if you are tired of the introspection but when you walk six and half hours there is a huge amount of time for Jesus to speak to you.  Today I took a course on following. Oh, my goodness, how many times does He tell us to FOLLOW Him? And, how many times have I followed Him? But now we know what…

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Templars and the Camino

Ernest and my favorite villages so far are two high altitudes respites called Rabanal de Camino and Acebo. They are located just before the ascent of the mountain we just climbed and just after the steep descent of Monday. The Casa Rurals were quaint and cozy. The food delicious. The pilgrims were friendly and interesting.  We left Acebo today and met and walked with two German pilgrims, Sandra and Jennifer. Jennifer had a foot deformity but is transversing the Camino brilliantly. ( This reminds me of the Special Olympic slogan, “So what’s your excuse?!!”) We again began descending the mountain. Our legs were tired from the long hike yesterday and hard descent. This descent today was a bit easier but still took careful footing and a slower pace.  We hiked shorter today…about 11 miles but we were “dragging!”  We are staying in a modern hotel tonight in Ponferrado. ( We actually don’t want to be here with all the niceities but we wanted to be near the Templar Castle. If you aren’t aware of the significance of this castle; it’s strange octagonal shape; implications of the Ark of the Covenant; implications of the Holy Grail; and factual accounts of the…

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Ain’t No Mountain High Enough…Yet

The picture is of our topographical map of our journey today. You see that we had quite a ascent. Let us both tell you about our day. Jan: This was my absolutely favorite day so far.  Rabanal was the quaintest  village and we woke up to snow.  Here we go again…layer after layer after layer. I felt like the Pillsbury dough boy but I was warm. Well, I had lost one glove and Ernest refused to let me suffer for my own mistake. I wore one of his gloves and he wore one  sock and one glove. I married a wonderful,generous,kind man. Folks, I am a bit “athletic” but I have never been a serious hiker unlike Ernest. I just kept stopping and exclaiming,”Ernest, look at this! Have you ever seen such majesty?”  I was,overwhelmed by God’s creation. The snow capped mountains surrounded us. It was literally breathtaking. I still am amazed as I write of it. The ascent was really pretty easy. The altitude affected us but we stopped frequently to gaze at His splendor and that helped our breathing. Then, before, I seemed to know it we were approaching THE CROSS. As a pilgrim you are supposed to…

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Serendipities During a Week of Camino

You must know that there is so  much we leave it out. The Camino gives abundantly and when you get at the end of the day you only hit the “church steeples” of the minutes you spent. We thought we might bring you up on a few of the major parts we have barely mentioned. Spain:  Ahhh, the country of Spain. The genorosity and welcomeness of the people honestly takes your breath away. They WANT to help you; order food; get to your room; buy a bus ticket from a machine; call a taxi for you when the bus is late; help you pay by counting “heavy” coins. They are full of gaiety and song yet reverent and respectful of Jesus beyond words. They seem to delight in life. The tapas make a meal. The pilgrim’s menus are four generous courses for ten euroes. The homes and architecture delight you. Is it Moorish? Gothic; Romanasce? Anything built since the 14th century is modern. Spain is worth the trip itself.  Introspection:  Whether you begin the Camino on a spiritual quest or not, God presents Himslf to you. The hours of solitude laced with the task of FOLLOWING(even though you are following…

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Day 6, Saturday of our first el Camino

This is Ernest giving our daily update today.O what a glorious, crisp Saturday morning walk from Religeos to Mansilla de las Mulas, one of the oldest walled villages in Spain. The 6k walk was wonderful and walking around in Mansilla, looking at the ancient walls-they were so high- like about 14-15 feet high, was breathtaking. But, alas we are taking a half day of rest by taking a bus from Mansilla, 17 k, on into Leon. The guidebook says the buses leave every 30 minutes all day long. Walked up to the bus station only to find that the $1.65 bus ride doesn’t leave for 5 hours! So then quick $20 euro taxi ride into our hotel in Leon. Just a beautiful sunshiny day for brief walk around Leon- so many people filling the streets- street accordion players on the corners- a walking group of young girls singing- and all decked out in pink jackets. Lunch on a very narrow street, had to be the best tapas ever eaten.  So far, our equipment has done wonderfully, but wish my pack weighed about 6-7 kilos instead of 10 kilos. I have seen a couple of experienced Pilgrams with much smaller packs,…

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Two Novice Pilgrims

What have we learned in five days of pilgrimage? One thing we know for certain is this is different from hiking. We can’t really put our thoughts around it!  Why is it different?  Sometimes we talk about St. James. One of the brothers that Jesus called the sons of thunder. Their name indicated that they certainly were not mild and meek men. We discuss the fact that all Jesus disciples except James’s brother, John, died for the truth they knew. Is it how we are treated that makes this different?  ALL are encouraging!  ALL  wish us well! ALL expect us to respect God and love Him! “BuenCamino”(Good Pilgrimage)…whatever the reason you are walking..be about that business and do a good job! Is it that even though we walk together we have hours of solitude?  We sometimes walk for miles with the only words spoken verbally are, ” Are you okay? Did you see that hawk? Aren’t the mountains comforting?”  The rest of the time Ernest’s brain is in his “nothing box” and mine is reflecting. ( Ernest calls this thinking/praying!) But it is different and we are called!  We KNOW it. We are pilgrims! The day was hot! Almost from…

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